When Were Cone Bras Popular? A Modern Statement

Written by Carmen Rodriguez

When were cone bras popular? The Cone Bra: From Vintage Icon to Modern Power Statement. In the world of lingerie, few silhouettes have had as much cultural impact as the cone bra. With its unmistakable pointed shape and architectural structure, the cone bra is more than just undergarment history, it’s a symbol of bold femininity, fashion rebellion, and timeless confidence. The introduction of the first bullet bra in the 1940s marked a turning point, setting the stage for its lasting cultural significance.

From mid-century movie stars to pop culture icons like Madonna, the cone bra has remained a striking and powerful statement. But what exactly is a cone bra, and why is it making a comeback in today’s modern wardrobe?

Let’s dive into the history, design, and current revival of this iconic piece.

What Is a Cone Bra?

A cone bra is a type of structured bra designed with projected, conical-shaped bra cups, soft cup bras, unlike the rounded, molded styles popular today. The unique design of these bra cups provided a distinct pointed silhouette, which gained prominence in the 1940s and 1950s, offering lift and definition at a time when shapely silhouettes were celebrated in fashion.

Also known as a bullet bra or torpedo bra, the cone bra was often worn under sweater tops or fitted blouses, creating the classic “sweater girl” look.

A Brief History of the Cone Bra

1940s–1950s: With innovations in lingerie design post-WWII, the cone bra emerged as a way to accentuate the bust and complement the era’s hourglass fashion ideals.

During this decade torn by World War II, the original Perma-Lift model, introduced by the Perma-Lift brand in 1941, became especially popular. Fashion trends were influenced by both American and European theaters, with the new style of cone bras often paired with iconic 1940s hairstyles called victory rolls. Actresses began wearing these bras in films and public appearances, further popularizing the look and cementing its place in vintage fashion.
1980s–1990s: The cone bra was reintroduced into pop culture by Jean Paul Gaultier, who famously designed the structured bra corset worn by Madonna during her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour. It became a symbol of female power, rebellion, and control.
Today: The cone bra has evolved into a fashion-forward, retro-inspired piece reinterpreted by lingerie designers who value both style and structure.

Who Wears a Cone Bra Today?

The cone bra isn’t just for vintage lovers or costume designers, it’s being embraced by modern women who appreciate its bold aesthetic and supportive structure.

Perfect for:

✅ Fashion enthusiasts who love retro and pin-up style ✅ Full-busted women seeking sculpted, forward projection ✅ Performers, stylists, and fashion photographers ✅ Anyone who wants to make a confident style statement

At Olivia Paisley Intimates, we believe in celebrating all forms of femininity and the cone bra is a powerful part of that story. The newest bra styles often draw inspiration from vintage cone bras, blending iconic shapes with modern comfort. For those seeking the classic look with added ease, soft cup bras provide a comfortable alternative while still capturing the spirit of this timeless design.

Key Features of a Cone Bra

When shopping for or styling a cone bra, keep these expert details in mind:

🎯 Conical Shaping

Cups are crafted with spiral stitching or paneling to create projection and support. In vintage cone bras, only stitching was used to shape the cups, with no underwires involved. This unique construction method meant that stitching forced the cups to maintain their iconic conical shape, resulting in the distinctive silhouette associated with bullet bras.

🎯 Non-Stretch Fabric

Often made from woven, structured materials (like satin or taffeta) to hold shape.

🎯 No Padding, No Mold

Unlike push-up or molded bras, cone bras create lift with architecture, not foam. The Perma-Lift design, for example, was renowned for providing supreme comfort and support without the need for underwires. This self-supporting structure allowed wearers to experience both supreme comfort and a distinctive, uplifted shape, making Perma-Lift a significant innovation in vintage bra design.

🎯 Full Band Support

Most cone bras include a wide band and back closure for stability and security.

Cultural Significance of the Cone Bra

The cone bra, also known as the bullet bra or torpedo bra, stands as one of the most recognizable and culturally charged undergarments in fashion history. Emerging in the 1940s and 1950s, this pointed, architectural style didn’t just shape the bust; it helped shape an era. The iconic silhouette of cone bras, with their conical cups and spiral stitching, captivated customers and quickly became a symbol of the times.

Hollywood’s most famous actresses, including Marilyn Monroe, Lana Turner, and Jayne Mansfield, brought the bullet bra into the spotlight. Their appearances in tight sweaters and fitted blouses defined the “sweater girl” look, making pointy bras and cone cups synonymous with glamour and allure. These pin up girls, with their suggestive silhouettes and very tight sweaters, set new standards for feminine beauty and confidence, inspiring everyday women to embrace the bold, forward projection of bullet bras.

But the cone bra’s significance goes beyond fashion trends. During World War II, as women took on new roles in society, the cone bra became a symbol of both independence and femininity. The pointed shape and structured design reflected a cultural shift, encouraging women to stand tall and proud, even as the world around them changed. While many celebrated the empowering effect of such provocative undergarments, some critics hated cone bras, finding their exaggerated, pointy breasts too daring for the wholesome good girl persona of the era.

Despite the controversy, the cone bra’s popularity endured. Designers like Jean Paul Gaultier revived the look in the late 20th century, most famously with Madonna’s unforgettable cone bra corset during her Blonde Ambition Tour. This moment not only paid homage to the original bullet bra’s iconic silhouette but also redefined it as a symbol of female power and rebellion. The cone bra’s influence has since rippled through fashion history, inspiring new generations of lingerie designers to experiment with cone cups, torpedo bras, and other provocative undergarments.

Today, the cone bra continues to inspire both vintage lovers and modern fashion enthusiasts. Designers such as Daniel Roseberry and Olivier Rousteing have reimagined the conical shape for the runway, while new cone bras and vintage bullet bras remain coveted pieces for those who appreciate their cultural significance. Whether worn as a nod to fashion history or as a bold, empowering statement, the cone bra’s legacy is undeniable, a huge part of popular culture that continues to evolve with each new generation.

From the post-war era to Paris Fashion Week, the cone bra has come full circle, proving that its iconic silhouette and suggestive style are as relevant now as ever. As fashion continues to push boundaries, the cone bra stands as a testament to the enduring power of confidence, individuality, and the art of lingerie.

How to Wear a Cone Bra Today

While bold, the cone bra can be styled in both dramatic and subtle ways:

Under vintage dresses or 1950s silhouettes for period authenticity
As outerwear, styled under a blazer or sheer blouse for runway-inspired looks, echoing the model walks seen at major fashion presentations
With high-waisted pants or skirts to balance proportions
Layered in boudoir shoots or editorial styling
Wearing tight sweaters over a cone bra for a classic 'sweater girl' effect, channeling vintage Hollywood glamour

It’s not just lingerie, it’s fashion armor.

Cone Bras at Olivia Paisley Intimates

At Olivia Paisley, we curate specialty lingerie pieces that blend classic craftsmanship with modern comfort. Our cone bras are available in structured vintage styles and reimagined soft-cup silhouettes, with sizes designed to flatter full busts and curves. We offer many bullets bras in different styles, reflecting the iconic cone shape and historical significance that made these bras so popular.

We offer:

Authentic vintage-inspired bullet bras
Soft-cone bralettes with retro stitching
Cone corsets and shapewear with modern materials
Expert fittings in-store or virtually to get the projection just right

These bras captivated customers in the 1940s and 1950s with their unique design, glamour, and cultural impact, and continue to inspire fashion enthusiasts today.

If you’re looking to explore cone bras for the first time or add a fashion-forward piece to your lingerie drawer, our team can help you find the perfect fit and style.

Final Thoughts: Bold, Sculptural, Iconic

The cone bra is more than a nostalgic throwback, it’s a celebration of femininity in its most architectural and unapologetic form. It offers a unique way to express confidence, style, and individuality while honoring the artistry of lingerie design.

The dramatic, pointed shape of the cone bra created an iconic look that stood in stark contrast to the more natural silhouette and the shift toward a more natural silhouette that became popular in later decades. Whether you’re drawn to its vintage charm or modern fashion edge, one thing is clear: the impact of the cone bra is not something fashion lovers will forget anytime soon.

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