The Torpedo Bra: A Vintage Icon That Shaped Fashion

Written by Carmen Rodriguez

The Torpedo Bra: A Vintage Shape Icon That Shaped Fashion History. In the world of lingerie, few designs are as instantly recognizable and as evocative as the torpedo bra. With its distinctively pointed, conical shape, the torpedo bra isn’t just an undergarment; it’s a bold fashion statement rooted in mid-20th-century style, Hollywood glamour, and cultural evolution.

The origins of the torpedo bra can be traced back to the influence of World War II, when fabric rationing and changing roles for women led to innovative fashion trends, including the emergence of the conical bra shape. During this era, the 'sweater girls' phenomenon took hold, with Hollywood stars like Lana Turner and Jayne Mansfield popularizing the look in movies and films. These actresses became icons of the torpedo bra style, helping to cement its place in fashion history and making the exaggerated bustline a symbol of glamour and sexuality.

But what exactly is a torpedo bra, how does it differ from the classic bullet bra, and why is it still turning heads today? Let’s explore the origins, construction, and modern-day relevance of this iconic piece, which became a sign of 1950s glamour and a symbol of changing beauty standards.

What Is a Torpedo Bra?

A torpedo bra is a highly structured, vintage inspired bra characterized by dramatically pointed cups that project forward, creating a distinctive cone shape. The cup is typically constructed with firm materials and features circular stitching, especially on the bottom half, to achieve the iconic torpedo silhouette. Often confused with the bullet bra, the torpedo version is even more pronounced in its architecture, giving the bust an ultra sculpted, high velocity look hence the “torpedo” reference.

Key Features:

Dramatically pointed, conical cup shape
Firm structure for maximum support
Circular stitching, particularly on the bottom half of the cup, to enhance shaping and reinforce the vintage aesthetic

These construction techniques, including the use of circular stitching and structured cups, contribute significantly to the unique shaping of the bust that defines the torpedo bra style.

Key Features:

Extreme Projection: The cups extend forward into a sharp point rather than rounding naturally.
Seamed Construction: Typically made from stiff fabric with concentric or spiral stitching, reinforcing the shape.
Wire-Free or Lightly Wired: Most original torpedo bras relied on structural fabric rather than underwire.
High Apex Cups: The cups rise higher on the chest, offering more dramatic lift and shape.

Torpedo vs. Bullet Bra: What's the Difference?

Though often used interchangeably, there is a subtle distinction between a torpedo bra and a bullet bra.

Feature	Bullet Bra	Torpedo Bra
Shape	Rounded, conical	Sharper, more projected cone
Stitching	Spiral or concentric circles	Often linear or more rigid seams
Volume	Moderate lift	Maximum projection and lift
Era of Popularity	1940s–1950s	Late 1950s–early 1960s

The torpedo bra is essentially the exaggerated evolution of the bullet bra, favored for its sculptural, space-age silhouette that was famously popularized by celebrities and pin-up icons.

The bullet bra first gained widespread attention in the 1940s, thanks to the Perma-Lift brand, which promoted it as a supportive, wire free undergarment that quickly became a fashion forward staple. Both the torpedo and bullet bra designs were created to enhance the wearer's silhouette, emphasizing a dramatic, pointed bust line that defined mid century style.

Today, modern bullet bras are available in a range of styles inspired by the original designs, including soft, horizontally-seamed bras and underwired versions with unique stitching details, reflecting the continued influence and evolution of this vintage-inspired lingerie.

A Brief History: From Utility to Icon

The torpedo bra rose to fame during the post-war era, when fashion emphasized the “new look” silhouette, a tiny waist paired with a full bust and hips. As corsets declined in popularity during the 1930s and 1940s, the torpedo bra emerged as a fashionable alternative, offering structure and support without the rigidity of traditional corsetry. Designers began to experiment with new shapes, materials, and construction techniques, pushing the boundaries of lingerie design. People quickly embraced the new silhouette, and it soon influenced everyday fashion, with the torpedo bra becoming a symbol of modern femininity. Lingerie collections started to feature the torpedo bra as a standout piece, showcasing its impact on both style and culture.

Stars like Jane Russell, Marilyn Monroe, and later Madonna embraced the shape, each putting their own spin on the conical bra. In fact, Madonna’s 1990 Jean Paul Gaultier-designed torpedo corset for the Blond Ambition tour brought this iconic silhouette roaring back into pop culture, with designers often adding unique details to their creations for dramatic stage and fashion impact.

How Does a Torpedo Bra Fit?

The torpedo bra is not designed to be invisible under clothes, it’s meant to shape the bust dramatically, making it ideal for:

Vintage fashion looks
Structured outerwear
Corset-based styling
Editorial or boudoir shoots

Fit-wise, it’s essential to find a size and style that aligns with your bust shape. While torpedo bras have a pointed, structured design, modern soft cup bras are generally more comfortable and flexible for everyday wear. To wear a torpedo bra for the best fit and silhouette, ensure the cups fully encase your bust and the band sits snugly without digging in. You can also add extra padding to enhance support or customize the fit to your preference. Although it may not offer the same molded comfort as modern T-shirt bras, when properly fitted, it offers unparalleled lift, posture support, and a strong visual silhouette.

Influence on Music and Pop Culture

The bullet bra’s unmistakable conical shape and signature spiral stitching have made it a lasting icon in music and popular culture, far beyond its origins in mid-century fashion. Over the decades, this bold bra has been worn by some of the world’s most influential artists, transforming from a vintage undergarment into a powerful symbol of style, confidence, and female empowerment.

In the music industry, the bullet bra has become synonymous with boundary-pushing performances and unforgettable stage moments. Madonna’s legendary Blonde Ambition tour in the early 1990s, featuring a custom Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra corset, redefined the way bras could be worn, not just as lingerie, but as a statement piece at the very heart of fashion and pop culture. Following in her footsteps, artists like Lady Gaga and Rihanna have embraced cone bras and bullet bras in their own performances and music videos, using the dramatic shape to create a sense of strength, sexuality, and playful rebellion.

The influence of the bullet bra extends to high profile collaborations between fashion designers and musicians. Jean Paul Gaultier’s partnership with Madonna is perhaps the most famous, but the trend of merging music and fashion through bold, conical designs continues to inspire new collections and runway moments. These collaborations have helped keep the bullet bra at the forefront of both industries, ensuring its iconic status endures.

Beyond the stage, bullet bras and cone bras frequently appear in films, television, and music videos, often as a nostalgic nod to the glamorous “sweater girl” era of the 1950s and 1960s. Whether worn by actresses channeling vintage Hollywood or by modern stars making a statement, the pointed shape and structured style evoke a sense of retro chic and unapologetic femininity.

Decades after its introduction, the bullet bra remains a powerful symbol in popular culture, a testament to its unique design, cultural impact, and ability to inspire new generations. As both a fashion statement and a piece of music history, the bullet bra continues to shape the way we think about bras, style, and the art of making a statement.

Styling the Torpedo Bra in a Modern Wardrobe

While it may not be an everyday choice for most, the torpedo bra offers unique styling opportunities. Black torpedo bras are especially popular as a classic and versatile option, easily pairing with a variety of outfits for a timeless look. Experimenting with retro inspired lingerie styles can be fun, adding a lively and nostalgic touch to your wardrobe. Brands like Playful Promises offer playful, vintage-inspired torpedo bras that capture the spirit of mid-century fashion while appealing to modern tastes.

🔹 Under Vintage Dresses

Perfect for 1950s silhouettes and retro A-line dresses that were originally designed with this shape in mind.

🔹 Layered Over Shirts

In true editorial fashion, layer a torpedo-style bra or corset over a crisp button-down for high-impact style.

🔹 Paired With Pencil Skirts or High-Waist Trousers

Let the structured top half play off sleek, waist-accentuating bottoms for a contemporary bombshell look.

Is the Torpedo Bra Making a Comeback?

Absolutely. As lingerie trends embrace structure, empowerment, and vintage revival, the torpedo bra has returned to both runway and boutique collections. Designers are reimagining this classic silhouette with modern materials, think soft mesh, stretch satin, and breathable lining, making it more wearable than ever.

Brands like What Katie Did have been instrumental in reviving and popularizing vintage style bullet and torpedo bras, drawing on decades of expertise and craftsmanship to bring 1950s glamour into the modern era.

If you're interested in exploring more, check out our curated list of recommended torpedo bras and brands for every style and budget. For further inspiration and information, check out additional resources and articles on vintage lingerie, including alternatives to traditional bras.

It’s also found a home in luxury lingerie, corsetry, and gender-fluid fashion, symbolizing not just femininity but strength, drama, and body confidence.

Final Thoughts

The torpedo bra is more than lingerie, it's a piece of fashion history. Fierce, unapologetic, and unmistakably sculptural, it tells the story of how women's style, beauty standards, and empowerment have evolved over time.

Whether you're a vintage fashion lover, a modern maximalist, or someone simply curious about unique silhouettes, the torpedo bra offers a bold reminder: lingerie can be art, armor, and attitude, all at once.