The Cone Bra: A Bold Legacy in Lingerie and Fashion

Few lingerie silhouettes have made a cultural impact quite like the cone bra. With its distinctive pointed cups and iconic place in fashion history, the cone bra remains a symbol of empowerment, rebellion, and unapologetic femininity. From the silver screen sirens of the 1940s to Madonna’s legendary Jean Paul Gaultier corset in the 1990s, the cone bra has continually re-emerged as both a statement piece and a conversation starter.

In this blog, we explore the origins, evolution, modern interpretations, and styling potential of the cone bra—examining why this once-radical design still captures imaginations today.

What Is a Cone Bra?

A cone bra is a structured brassiere characterized by its distinctly pointed cups, often achieved through strategic stitching and stiff materials. Unlike modern bras that prioritize a natural, rounded silhouette, cone bras exaggerate projection, creating a dramatic, vintage-inspired shape.

Cone bras were typically unlined and wire-free, relying on spiral stitching and strategic seams to maintain their shape. They are closely associated with:

• Mid-century fashion (1940s–1950s)

• Pin-up and burlesque aesthetics

• Avant-garde and performance fashion

A Brief History of the Cone Bra

🧵 1940s–1950s: Post-War Femininity

The cone bra rose to popularity in the 1940s and 1950s, when fashion emphasized an exaggerated hourglass silhouette. Brands like Maidenform and Bali capitalized on this trend with bras that projected the bust forward and emphasized a narrow waist—feeding into the idealized "bullet" silhouette of the time.

🎤 1990s: Reinvention by Jean Paul Gaultier

The cone bra re-entered the cultural spotlight when Madonna wore a custom-designed corset with cone-shaped cups during her 1990 Blonde Ambition tour. Gaultier’s interpretation turned lingerie into outerwear and sparked a mainstream discussion about female agency, sexuality, and power.

🔁 Today: Niche Fashion and Lingerie Revival

In contemporary fashion, cone bras are experiencing a resurgence—not necessarily for everyday wear, but as editorial and statement pieces. They’re found in vintage reproduction lingerie, fashion runway reinterpretations, and burlesque wardrobes. Modern designers celebrate their craftsmanship and bold aesthetic.

Construction: How Are Cone Bras Made?

Unlike molded cups in modern bras, cone bras rely on:

• Spiral or concentric top-stitching to build cup shape

• Non-stretch materials like cotton, satin, or nylon mesh

• Side boning and wide bands for support

• High apex design for maximum projection

These bras are typically unlined and have little to no padding, meaning the dramatic shape comes purely from structure.

Who Wears a Cone Bra Today?

The cone bra isn’t for everyone—but it resonates with wearers who appreciate:

• Vintage and pin-up fashion

• Theatrical or burlesque performance

• Gender expression and body art

• Fashion collectors and historical reenactors

It also appeals to those drawn to bold silhouettes and unorthodox beauty standards. Some full-bust wearers also explore cone bras for projection and lift without underwire.

Styling the Cone Bra

Modern stylists incorporate cone bras in creative and fashion-forward ways:

1. As Outerwear: Layered under sheer tops or worn as a standalone crop top for bold fashion statements.

2. With High-Waisted Bottoms: Emphasizes retro silhouettes; perfect for a 1950s-inspired pin-up look.

3. Beneath Power Blazers: For runway-inspired contrast between structured lingerie and tailored outerwear.

4. In Editorial Shoots: As a sculptural piece that adds visual drama and vintage flair.

Where to Find Cone Bras

While not a common item in mainstream lingerie collections, cone bras can be found through:

• Vintage and reproduction lingerie brands (e.g., What Katie Did, Dita Von Teese)

• Boutique designers and corsetiers

• Costume houses and performance wear retailers

• Custom or handmade lingerie ateliers

Many modern pieces offer the cone shape with added comfort or hybrid features, making them more wearable than their mid-century counterparts.

Final Thoughts

The cone bra is more than just a garment—it's a visual manifesto. Born in an era of changing gender roles, revived in moments of pop culture rebellion, and preserved through fashion’s continual experimentation, the cone bra remains a daring and distinctive symbol of femininity.

Whether you’re a vintage aficionado, a lingerie collector, or someone exploring your unique fashion identity, the cone bra invites you to step into a legacy that’s equal parts history and high style.